Fez Tannery: A Beautiful, Smelly, Unforgettable Experience
Walking through the winding streets of Fez, every turn felt like stepping deeper into history. The city itself is a maze of market stalls, towering minarets, and centuries-old traditions. With our private guide leading the way, we found ourselves standing at the entrance of one of Fez’s most famous landmarks—the Chouara Tannery.
I’d seen pictures before. The rows of stone vats filled with deep reds, saffron yellows, and rich browns looked almost artistic. I knew this was where Morocco’s famous leather goods came from, and I was excited to see the process in action. But what I wasn’t prepared for? The smell.
The Beauty (and Brutality) of Traditional Leather-Making
Chouara Tannery is one of the oldest leather tanneries in the world, dating back to the 11th century. The process of making leather here has barely changed in all that time. Workers take raw animal hides (fur and all), soak them in vats of lime, cow urine, and pigeon droppings to soften them, and then dye them with natural ingredients like saffron, poppy, and indigo. It’s incredible to witness—true craftsmanship that’s been passed down for generations.
But standing there, listening to a man passionately explain the history and process, all I could focus on was not gagging.
They handed me a small sprig of mint, a trick to help mask the smell. Cute idea, but that mint didn’t stand a chance. Five seconds in, my eyes were watering. Ten seconds in, my stomach was turning. I felt bad cutting off the guy’s speech, but I knew if I stayed any longer, I was going to lose it. I had to get out.
No Leather Souvenirs, Just a Core Memory
I didn’t buy anything. I didn’t stick around long enough to browse the gorgeous handmade bags, jackets, or shoes. But I left with a core memory—one that I will never forget (and that my nose may never forgive me for).
If you ever find yourself in Fez, the tannery is absolutely worth seeing. It’s raw, it’s real, and it’s unlike anything else. But take my advice—bring a scarf to cover your nose, brace yourself, and maybe don’t visit right after a big meal.
Would you be brave enough to experience it, or would you be running for fresh air like I did?
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Jen Altheide, jaltheide@dreamvacations.com
